Friday, May 4, 2012

Guaymas, Mexico...Part Three

After the long bus ride from Mazatlan to Guaymas ( why-mas )...I'm at the local bus depot. The taxi drivers don't know where Las Playitas is..I'm tired...a bit stunned from the ride...and feeling like these guys are totally bullshitting me.
Map in hand, a Guaymas taxi driver who speaks better English than his partner...offers to try and locate the mysterious Las Playitas. I have no clue which way is which...are we going in circles. are we going into the Sonoran desert?...I just don't know.

My buddy Bill said "Just head for the sticks" meaning just head for the cluster of sailboat masts in the marina. Awesome tip...if it was daylight, but it's not. The driver heads down a road that he thinks might deliver some degree of success. We hit a dead end and turn around. My driver by now seems more sincere than sinister. I now trust that he is serious about getting me delivered to the boatyard.

Finally we get to a point where if you squint real hard in the twilight, a guy can make out the shadows of a boatyard. We ease down the flood ravaged dirt road.
 I bail out of the cab and ask the driver to stand by. 
Walking up to the steel mesh fence, it's not hard to notice that there are dozens of sailboats...and not one iota of human activity. That's a problem.

So, to solve the problem...I start yelling "Bill...Bill Brooks!!...Bill...it's Mike...where the fuck are you!!??"
At that point there were several things that I was unaware of.
#1.. the boatyard had more occupants than just Bill and Miriam...lots more.
#2..the boatyard had security people.
#3 ..the boatyard was full of dogs.

A very unhappy Mexican security guy came up to the fence and started in on me in Spanish. Dogs followed him, barking and nipping at anything that seemed to move. I started to explain my situation, but of course it was in the wrong language. A very honest apology, but to no good effect.
I retreated strategically back across the dirt to my taxi driver, who was now very unimpressed with me. I asked the taxi driver to explain that I was just looking for my Canadian friend...and that all was going to be just fine.
The driver ( God bless him ) came up to the fence to try and explain the actions of the gringo. Just at the right moment..in the darkness, a voice.."Mike...Mike..what are you doing...is that you?"

Bill was on his boat and heard the ruckus..dogs barking and security guys cursing.  Bill and I met for the first time, face to face, in years on opposite sides of a Mexican wire fence, in the wee hours of the night.
The yard security man was glad to go back to watching the local soap operas without having to shoot anyone, and the taxi driver was happy to get paid and return back to town.

Onboard the sailboat, MoonHunter..Bill and Miriam and I catch up on stories and drink excellent cheap wine and phenomenally cheap and yummy beer.
The apartment that I had made provisions to rent is not ready yet, ( it's a Mexico thing ) so I set in to stay a few nights on the boat.
In the morning, I begin one of the most pleasant and heavenly times of my life..a carefree, hassle free time in a dusty corner of a small Mexican town. I loved every minute of every day.
The Marina Seca dryland boatyard in Guaymas

It didn't take long for me to sniff out a rusty truck to photograph. As it turns out, it was in the backyard of my new favourite lunch hang-out

Commercial fishboats in dry storage

A rusty assembly of fishing boats in the Guaymas bay

That lovely steel motor yacht is for sale if you know anyone in the market

Abuelo's...that's where you want to go for meals...
Different view of the apartment...the boatyard is just off the the right
 From the deck of Bill's boat
Me, slaving away....sanding and scraping
Bill Brooks...El Capitan
Britt's stepmom...photographed by Brittany
Britt's dad
Can't remember her name...but I'll get it later....she and her husband and daughter are from Belgium
ican
Mexican boatyard puppies....photographed by Britt

View from the back of the apartment that I will be living in soon















Here is a video tour of the boatyard by Brittany, a young hyper-active girl that commandeered my camera in the early stages of the visit...you'll be seeing more of her. The non stop talking actually works in her favour on these videos.
Here is a tour of the apartment setup, just a block from the boatyard. It took a few days to get in touch with the owner to confirm the rental...it was just a very laid back "man'ana" kind of deal. 185 bucks a month, and all the fresh oranges and grapefruit you can handle. Let's just call it "quaint"...plus, I never heard a peep from the landlord or anybody else for the entire time I was there...oh yeah...there is a beer hut 100 yards away...chilled 1 liter bottles of Pacifico....80 cents...rough life.!!
This next video is only about a 10 minute walk from the apartment. Don't be getting the wrong idea about Guaymas...the town itself is very nice. This is just an industrial,  commercial fishing and repair area.
If you are a fan of sardines...the Guaymex processing plant is just a stones throw away.

Here is a bit of a tour in the hills behind the town of Guaymas. This is across the bay from the boatyard.
to be continued...

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